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Capes, chainmail and kaftans … the first post-ballgown Oscars

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Old Hollywood glamour – and the values its represented – gave way at this year’s Academy Awards to a new generation of fresh looks and powerful stances

In a shock result, the ballgown did not sweep the board at the Oscars. The fairytale princess gown – a shoo-in for red carpet success since the days when Vivien Leigh was making mat – had a disappointing night.

Instead Billie Eilish, 18-year-old performer and quintuple Grammy winner, wore an oversized cream Chanel trousersuit with Shrek green hair and Scissorhand nails. Natalie Portman had the names of female directors overlooked by the Academy this year, including Greta Gerwig and Lulu Wang, embroidered in gold script into her Christian Dior cape. Spike Lee was regal in Lakers purple in tribute to Kobe Bryant– a collaboration with Gucci. Ten-year-old Julia Butters, the scene-stealing young actor in Once Upon a Time In Hollywood, wore a fuchsia western-style Christian Siriano shirt-dress with a sparkling bolo tie instead of a necklace.

Natalie Portman wore a cape embroidered with the names of female film directors who were not nominated for Oscars.

Julia Butters, 10 yrs old in Siriano, and Spike Lee in a Lakers purple in tribute to Kobe Bryant.

Scarlett Johansson in Oscar de la Renta.

Janelle Monáe in metallic Ralph Lauren, and Cynthia Erivo in Versace.

Kaitlyn Dever in ethical and eco-responsible Louis Vuitton.

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