Quantcast
Channel: Jess Cartner-Morley | The Guardian
Viewing all 1625 articles
Browse latest View live

Gwyneth Paltrow has been at the forefront of pop culture for 20 years – I will miss her at Goop

$
0
0

Paltrow is uncoupling from her lifestyle website. We might have eye-rolled at the Sex Dust and golden dumbbells, but she did, on occasion, talk a lot of sense

I am sad that Gwyneth Paltrow is consciously uncoupling herself from her Goop lifestyle blog. There, I said it. This is an unfashionable opinion. I get the feeling that most people will happily live without Gwyneth’s wisdom, highlights of which have included where to get your vagina mugwort-steamed, and how artisan rosewood truffle slicers and $125,000 (£94,000) gold dumbbells make great gifts.

Related: Gwyneth Paltrow plans separation from Goop

Continue reading...

Cara Delevingne, tracksuits and ‘shawling’: how the September issues weigh up

$
0
0

Vogue, Love, Elle and more have unleashed their annual blockbuster editions. Which has the coolest cover star, the sharpest style tips and the best breakfast advice?

On the cover: Cara Delevingne, who has featured on three out of the past four British Vogue September issues. Cara is “shawling” – wearing off-the-shoulder – a Balenciaga anorak (£1,615).

Continue reading...

Rossy de Palma: ‘Seduction is great, but there is so much more to being a woman’

$
0
0

More than 20 years after making her name as Pedro Almodóvar’s muse, the Spanish actor and fashion icon is starring in his latest film, Julieta. She discusses age, glamour – and why she wants to play a kung fu superhero

Rossy de Palma’s left eye is a gentle sea-green, the lid softly hooded; her right eye is brighter and rounder, a sparkling hazel. As the sulky, menacing Marian in the new Pedro Almodóvar film, Julieta, the left eye seems to dominate, casting a melancholy spell. But today, as herself – a vivacious arthouse icon – the right takes over. She is positively radiant.

The skew of her features is softer in person than it looks on screen, her long nose more Modigliani-elegant than Picasso-strange. Still, her looks are such that it would be impossible for her to walk into a room without being noticed. In fact, as I am waiting in the green room of the British Film Institute on a quiet weekday afternoon, her imminent arrival is announced by a smattering of film students in the foyer, who break into polite applause as she walks past. She is statuesque in high-heeled sandals, with crimson toenails matching the painterly daubs on the silk shirt she wears open over a tight dress. The large, gold earrings (she is, after all, a glamorous Madrileño of a certain age) gleam under a leather pork-pie hat of the kind worn by the Specials.

Continue reading...

Never mind the catwalk, here’s how to dress this autumn

$
0
0
Something sporty, something dressy and big earrings – it’s the season made simple. Plus: eight key buys

A funny thing happens in fashion, which is that you are bombarded with information about new-season fashion trends without ever being told what it is you should actually wear. I can get to the end of a feature about “the new directions” and feel, if I am honest, none the wiser. OK, I should aim for Contemporary Polish or Fresh Sparkle but, um, what should I wear tomorrow?

This is not about fashion being deliberately obtuse. It is not even about fashion being accidentally obtuse by dint of Zoolanderish overuse of impressive-sounding words. (OK, OK, maybe a little bit of the latter.) It springs from good intentions: a well-intentioned recognition that fashion, these days, is as much about cult styling tricks and below-the-radar trends as it is about the new Prada catwalk. But the desire to appeal to the widest possible audience ends up miring fashion in bland, catch-all manifesto-speak that doesn’t mean anything. The phrase “modern tailoring” is to fashion’s September issues what “hard-working families” is to party conference season.

Related: Fringe benefits: the haircut that become 2016's fashion power move

Continue reading...

Squads are for losers, but #twinning is winning

$
0
0

When Beyoncé and Jay Z and Theresa and Philip May are all working a trend, something is definitely afoot

Now that we have had time to fully absorb and analyse the repercussions, it is clear that the most culturally significant reverb of Kim’s takedown of Taylor in July was the death of Swift’s squad, and the resulting devaluation of the very concept of the squad. For all their photogenic solidarity, Taylor Swift’s girl gang turned out to be wholly incompetent in defence of their queen when the going got tough. There was total radio silence from Gigi Hadid, Cara Delevingne, Karlie Kloss and the one from Victoria’s Secret, while a supportive tweet by Selena Gomez backfired spectacularly, when she appeared to belittle the Black Lives Matter movement #nothelpful

Continue reading...

The bikini is old-fashioned – no wonder it’s dying

$
0
0

The two-piece used to represent a saucy yet uncontroversial ideal of sex, summer and youth. Now its sales are tanking thanks to a combination of sun-avoidance, fitness, politics and, of course, fashion

The shortlist for outfit of summer 2016 runs something like this. Simone Biles in a leotard at the Rio Olympics, all stars and stripes and extra sparkle. Uma Thurman in a polo neck in the forthcoming Pirelli calendar. Taylor Swift on the beach with Tom Hiddleston, wearing lace-up brogues and a mustard-coloured sweater. Bella Hadid, naked but for two carefully positioned red roses, in the September issue of French Vogue.

In the era of NSFW images, the sedate two-piece is losing its allure

Continue reading...

What I wore this week: a pinafore dress

$
0
0
The trends that fly in September are always the ones closest in spirit to back to school

It is quite hard, as a grownup, to justify buying a new pencil case. I mean, my job is writing stuff down, and I have a thing about sharp pencils, so there is always a pencil sharpener at the bottom of my handbag, but still. I would feel a bit ridiculous getting an actual pencil case out of my bag, especially since they mostly have dinosaurs on them.

But if I am too old for a dinosaur pencil case, I will never grow out of needing a back-to-school look when September rolls around – and it is not just me. The trends that fly in September are always those closest in spirit to real back-to-school. A new seasonal colour is always a hit at this time of year, because it feels as if we’ve moved en masse to a school with a new uniform. A hemline diktat makes us all nostalgic for the rules we railed against as teenagers. Logical, no; powerful, yes.

Related: What I wore this week: the athleisure neckline | Jess Cartner-Morley

Continue reading...

Elle Macpherson: 'If you don't have a great body, how do you make a body look great?'

$
0
0

The supermodel dishes up some wisdom with her revolutionary underwear line

Elle Macpherson has poured our tea, and now she is putting her spectacles on to demonstrate the new clasp she has designed for the very pretty front-fastening bra she is showing me in a Clerkenwell showroom. This, right here, is the difference between the new Elle Macpherson Body brand of lingerie and Elle Macpherson Intimates, with which she parted company two years ago. At 52, Macpherson is not just here to look good in knickers; she is the brains of the operation.

Continue reading...

What I wore this week: padded power coat | Jess Cartner-Morley

$
0
0

It looks like the coat you grab off the rack to walk the dog, but it is, in fact, the coat those in the know will wear to fashion week

This is a power coat. Yes, really. I know it doesn’t look like it. It isn’t cashmere, it isn’t Savile Row-tailored. It isn’t power navy or stealth-wealth camel. It looks like the coat you grab off the rack to walk the dog, not the coat around which you base your new season look. But it is, in fact, the coat those in the know will wear to fashion week.

At its most basic level, the rise of the padded coat is the inevitable climax of a year when fashion has been outplayed by sportswear and athleisure. Trainers have overtaken heels, tracksuit bottoms have usurped trousers, sweatshirts have eclipsed knits. Where the traditional coat takes its cue from the look of the most powerful person in a boardroom or the most glamorous person in a fancy restaurant, this year’s alpha coat channels the manager running things from the sidelines at a football match.

Related: What I wore this week: the athleisure neckline | Jess Cartner-Morley

Continue reading...

Victoria Beckham steers a clever course through New York fashion week

$
0
0

Not many designers have navigated the tempestuous new world of fashion week like the former pop star

New York fashion week is a tempestuous place to be: it is at the mercy of tyrannical celebrity egos, as evidenced by Kanye West’s two-hour catwalk spectacle, which saw a model faint in the heat. And it has undergone a rapid shift from being an insider’s world of seating plans and civilised four-month lead times into being a consumer-facing Disneyworld of clothes which are on sale as well as on show, in full-sized funfairs (Tommy Hilfiger) and pop-up sweet stores (Alexander Wang).

Meanwhile, brands less brave or brazen continue to stage traditional catwalk shows to polite but dwindling audiences, ploughing on like the band on the Titanic.

Continue reading...

Nicola Adams: ‘I wish I’d told Muhammad Ali he was the reason I wanted to win gold'

$
0
0

The double Olympic boxing champion is also a style icon and LGBT role model. She talks about Team GB’s success – and swapping training for cake and clubbing

‘She looks bigger on the telly.” It’s a curious thing to say about a flyweight boxer with a fighting weight of 51kg (8st 1lb), but the training gym regular who has sidled over to my side of the ring for a better view of the double Olympic gold champion is right. Nicola Adams is even tinier than you think she’s going to be. Her stature – just shy of 1.62m (5ft 4in) in bouncy trainers – seems too small to contain it all: the Muhammad Ali shuffle, the Miss World smile, the megawatt punch.

Adams is dressed in the crisp, boxfresh aesthetic specific to athletes who have made it to business-class lounge level: slim grey marl tracksuit bottoms tucked into pristine white high-top trainers, sizeable diamond studs in her lobes, a fancy pair of gold headphones worn around the neck of her bright white T-shirt. For the portrait, she adds the finishing touches, first pulling on a navy Team GB hoodie and then, after digging around in the side pocket of a Louis Vuitton rucksack, her latest gold medal, which she pulls out of a thick black sock. “Stops it getting scratched,” she says, flashing me that Tinker Bell smile and looping it around her neck.

I never think, I'll be happy just to win a medal. I’m only happy with gold

Related: Nicola Adams: ‘After I won gold, I went to McDonald’s for the hell of it’

Continue reading...

New DVF designer keeps wrap dress centre stage in confident debut

From Gigi Hadid to emoji fashion – New York fashion week is looking to the future

$
0
0
A new generation of designers are having their moment: this year was all about sexy skin and the Dancing Lady emoji dress

Diane Von Furstenberg bowed out of the limelight at her own brand this weekend, ceding centre stage to the newly hired designer Jonathan Saunders. Donna Karan was at the DKNY show, but sedately on the front row rather than strutting the catwalk, after her retirement last year. The great houses of Calvin Klein and Oscar de la Renta are both keeping a low profile, finding themselves between headline designers. Of the old guard, only Ralph Lauren’s name remains in lights this season.

Sad times? Far from it. It’s the best thing that’s happened to New York fashion week in ages. The New York catwalks had been living in the shadow of their very own Mount Rushmore. Ralph, Calvin, Donna, Diane, with their one-name-only presidential-style monikers, loomed over Seventh Avenue while the rank-and-file of designers tied themselves in knots overthinking the meaning of cashmere and racking their brains for 32 synonyms of grey to fill the programme notes.

Continue reading...

How statement abs became the new thigh gap

$
0
0

The prized hollow of the ab crack has become the defining body obsession in the era of the crop top and the sports bra. Thanks for that, Taylor Swift

Fashion has a new version of the chicken-and-egg question, and it goes like this: which came first, the crop top or the ab crack?

If you don’t know what an ab crack is, allow me to enlighten you. It is the hollow that runs vertically down the centre of the abdominal muscles, from the breastbone to the tummy button – but only if those abdominal muscles are extremely toned, and the shape of the musculature revealed by very low levels of body fat. If you want to see an ab crack in all its glory, head to the Instagram pages of Emily Ratajkowski, or Kendall Jenner, or either Hadidsister. Although, be warned: you may find yourself overwhelmed by nostalgia for the relatively forgiving age of the thigh gap.

Continue reading...

Retail to runway: what happens when clothes are sold direct from the catwalk?

$
0
0

In a want-it-have-it world, the six-month lag between the shows and the shops feels outdated. But are fashion houses ready for a See Now, Buy Now revolution in the way they work?

Two years ago, at a Democratic fundraiser in Seattle, President Obama spoke of “the sense that around the world the old order isn’t holding and we’re not quite yet to where we need to be in terms of a new order that’s based on a different set of principles”. To be clear, he was talking about Ukraine and Syria and Israel, not about fashion week. But as Coco Chanel so wisely remarked, fashion reflects the world we live in, and Obama’s words are as true of the current state of the fashion industry as they are of international relations. In fashion as in politics, the system is outmoded, the establishment is at breaking point, the mood is fractious and unrest is in the air.

This sounds a grandiose starting point from which to debate See Now, Buy Now, the trend to ditch fashion’s six-month lead time and synchronise catwalk shows with store deliveries. But See Now, Buy Now is a crucial tipping point, at which the impact of technology, globalisation and democratisation on the fashion industry is felt not just by buyers in the retail industry sense, but by buyers in the me-and-you-on-a-Saturday-afternoon sense.

Continue reading...

Olivier Rousteing on Rihanna, Kim Kardashian and the Balmain army

$
0
0

With his model good looks, celebrity friends and Instagram fame, Olivier Rousteing is not your traditional fashion designer. But his brand of bling has made Balmain a household name, so who cares about tradition?

A gorgeous July day in Paris, the haute couture shows are in full swing and the Four Seasons hotel is in glamour lockdown. A motorcade of buffed, black, presidential-scale cars lines the kerb outside its street entrance, currently occupied by two women in red-carpet hair and makeup who have paused at the exit for a prolonged session with a selfie stick. Inside, a chandelier the size of a meteorite twinkles above a vast expanse of black and white marble floor, the airy space punctuated by urns crowded with triffid-sized white gladioli, reed slender and supermodel height.

In other words, the scene is perfectly set for the entrance of Olivier Rousteing, Balmain’s creative director and Paris fashion’s most glamorous frontman. Except, of course, he isn’t here yet, because I am 10 minutes early and he – like any self-respecting rock star – will be 20 minutes late. The restaurant is mostly empty, the diners having spilled out into the courtyard for post-lunch cigarettes and espresso, so I sip a Diet Coke served with elaborate ceremony by a waitress in a cocktail dress, and wait.

Continue reading...

Theresa May shows Britain is still open for business at London fashion week

$
0
0

In a crisp white shirt with drawstring waist, the prime minister looked more fashion forward than her cocktail-dress clad guests

The defining policy of her government remains unpopular with this audience, but at least her outfit was a hit.

At Theresa May’s champagne reception to celebrate the start of London fashion week the prime minister played, it was generally agreed, a strong sartorial game. In a crisp white shirt with a utilitarian drawstring waist and stepped asymmetric hem, May looked more fashion-forward than her cocktail-dress-clad fashion industry guests.

Related: So In right now: fashion enters the Brexit debate

Continue reading...

What I wore this week: super sleeves

$
0
0

A change in proportions is the most eyecatching way to reset the needle on your look. A super sleeve is any sleeve which is knuckle-grazing or extravagantly shaped

For the purposes of this column I will travel to the very edges of my comfort zone, but as far as hemlines go, this is not very intrepid. A mini skirt, to me, is any skirt that ends more than about three inches above my knee. (This is not because I am a prude; my legs end about five inches above my knee.) I will sometimes wear a floor-length skirt, but not all that often, because while they are undeniably excellent for standing around looking elegant in, if you attempt to accomplish anything at normal speed you end up walking along while lifting your skirts up in the manner of an impoverished minor Austen character who is about to give herself a fever from walking through wet grass. Which is not elegant.

But a change in proportions is the most eyecatching way to reset the needle on your look. Which is why I am quite excited by the idea of a Super Sleeve, despite the obvious cuff-in-coffee drawbacks. Changing the hemline on your sleeve is almost as impactful as altering your skirt length – think of how significant the connotations of rolling your sleeves up are, after all.

Related: What I wore this week: a pinafore dress

Continue reading...

Topshop aligns with ordinary people as Sir Philip Green stays away

$
0
0

Topshop’s fashion week show provides instant retail gratification with a pop-up shop selling clothing fresh off the catwalk

He still has his knighthood, but Sir Philip Green has forfeited another prized bauble of social status: his place on the front row at London fashion week.

Green, who previously revelled in the photo opportunities provided by his Topshop catwalk show, was nowhere to be seen on Sunday afternoon. One imagines that whoever would have been responsible for recruiting the supermodel required to sit next to him breathed a sigh of relief when that announcement was made.

Continue reading...

Burberry's seasonless clothes usher in fashion's stream-of-consciousness era

$
0
0

September show breaks with arcane structures of fashion week, putting clothes online and on the catwalk simultaneously

When Virginia Woolf wrote the fantastical biographical novel Orlando, she broke all the rules of time and gender. The protagonist lives for four centuries but ages just 36 years; halfway through, with no explanation, he switches from being a man to a woman.

Orlando was Christopher Bailey’s starting point for Burberry’s show, a link more fundamental than the way in which this season’s Cavalry women’s jacket recalls the handsome boy-prince costumes worn by Tilda Swinton in the 1992 film.

Continue reading...
Viewing all 1625 articles
Browse latest View live