Quantcast
Channel: Jess Cartner-Morley | The Guardian
Viewing all 1625 articles
Browse latest View live

Max Mara brings the resort show circus to London

$
0
0

Luxury Italian label Max Mara celebrates its new London flagship with a sophisticated resort collection attuned to the ‘mixed’ European climate

In Cannes, Dior gave us taffeta hotpants with flip-flops; in the Californian desert Louis Vuitton was all about hippie-luxe maxidresses. But November – when these “resort” collections go in store – means something rather different in London. And so it was that Old Bond Street yesterday hosted a Max Mara catwalk featuring rainhoods, trenchcoats, trainers and gloves.

Continue reading...

What I wore this week: gingham

$
0
0

‘Our icon here is Jackie Kennedy, on holiday in Cape Cod circa 1961. Worn this way, gingham is relaxed and summery, but polished. It’s a look that still works’

Gingham has an image problem – it is too squeaky clean for its own good. Homemade jam, Dorothy’s pinafore in The Wizard Of Oz, pigtail ribbons and picnic baskets. This is all very appealing, but the thought process when I see gingham in a shop goes something like: 1) “Oooh, that’s pretty.” 2) “That would be a perfect dress for days when I’m… um, skipping through meadows?” 3) “On second thoughts, maybe I need another pair of grey trousers instead.”

But gingham can be grown up. Our icon here is Jackie Kennedy, on holiday in Cape Cod circa 1961. (She had an excellent gingham set of capri pants and matching shell top; also, a full-skirted sundress.) Worn this way, gingham is relaxed and summery, but polished. It’s a look that still works: Taylor Swift, in gingham shirt with high-waisted shorts, tennis shoes and red lipstick, is a modern version.

Continue reading...

What I wore this week: deep V necks

$
0
0
‘At the most recent Paris fashion week, Chloé had silk dresses plunging almost to the navel, with nothing beneath. This is very charming, but not enormously helpful as a day-to-day sartorial reference’

First, a quick recap of the modern history of necklines. A long time ago, when cleavage was A Thing, the primary function of the neckline in womenswear was as a showcase for hoisted breasts. Then, cleavage stopped being A Thing, and in its absence the neckline became about filling the visual gap left by the absence of hoisted breasts. To this end we had statement necklaces, slogan T-shirts with arcs of pretty French words, jewelled collars, and the collar of a contrasting collar shirt pulled over your crew-neck jumper. And then things moved on again, and the polo neck took over. The polo neck is all blank severity, an uncompromising nothing-to-see-under-the-chin-here message.

And now the deep V neck is back. It can go over a polo neck, over a crew neck, or over nothing at all. (But even over nothing, there’s no cleavage. It’s all done with underwear, in case you were wondering.) At the most recent Paris fashion week, the Chloé catwalk featured black silk dresses and blouses plunging almost to the navel, with nothing beneath. This is very charming and can go on the moodboard for, say, a beach lunch in Ibiza, but is not enormously helpful as a day-to-day sartorial reference. Céline, on the other hand, showed ankle-length tunics with a deep V neck layered over polo necks. Which is fabulous in a Jedi-knight way, but in its deliberate awkwardness not much more appropriate for real life than the ribcage-baring version.

Continue reading...

Joséphine de La Baume: meet Hollywood's new French dream girl

$
0
0

She plays the fantasy girlfriend in a hip new film, all Gitanes and Gallic attitude – but the model-actor-singer (and DJ Mark Ronson’s other half) says she’s a tomboy at heart

French women. Wow. One would prefer to believe it’s all a cliche: the black eyeliner, the Gitanes purr, the wind-you-round-their-chipped-Chanel-nail-varnished-little-finger pout. Except here I am, perched at one end of a sofa in a studio in the 11th arrondissement of Paris with Joséphine de La Baume curled up at the other end, a one-woman forcefield of feline, Gallic charm. The slow smile, the sleepy, half-closed eyes, the hand absent-mindedly raking hair off her face. She has an easy sensuality that – seemingly without trying – casts the bronzed, hard-bodied, Americanised version of hotness into the shade.

But you know what? It’s actually a total drag, being young Hollywood’s go-to French Dream Girl. “I always get the girl who is French and liberated and stylised. I dream of playing a girl who is a tomboy, tough, in the mud; but no. Never.” De La Baume pouts, then laughs. “I’m lucky if someone offers me a part where I don’t have to smoke and drink wine in every scene.” It’s a hard life, right? But then, as de La Baume adds, “On the other hand, I do get to be grumpy and feisty and a pain in the ass, because that’s very French.”

De La Baume has more about her than the picture captions on the social pages and men’s magazines would have you believe

We don’t go out, we don’t even go to the pub. All we do is watch films and hang out

Continue reading...

Kim Kardashian may have broken the internet, but Caitlyn Jenner united it

$
0
0

The first family of the reality-TV generation, the Kardashians are often dismissed as vacuous irritants. But the astonishingly positive reaction to Caitlyn Jenner’s Vanity Fair cover proves they have blazed a trail for tolerance

Caitlyn Jenner’s Vanity Fair cover was expected to create a controversial, watercooler cultural moment, but it turned into something much more extraordinary. Because the image of Caitlyn Jenner – winner of an Olympic gold medal as a man named Bruce, and member of the Kardashians, the family pop culture loves to hate – brought no controversy, only applause. Kim Kardashian may have broken the internet, but Caitlyn Jenner did something even more astonishing. She united it.

Jenner, Annie Leibovitz and Vanity Fair produced an image that won the world over. And this, in a society where acceptance and understanding of transgender issues – while progressing – is still in its infancy. The magazine is not yet on newsstands, and while the interview is available online for digital subscribers, the overwhelming majority of comment has been based on the cover image. In it, Jenner wears an ivory satin corset, so that her cinched waist, falling just above the coverline (“Call me Caitlyn”) forms the central focus. An hourglass woman’s body in white, in a 1950s cut bodice, surely references Marilyn Monroe – in the minds of Leibovitz and the Vanity Fair art directors, anyway, if not of Jenner. Monroe stands for all-Americanism, for blue-chip Hollywood glamour (as opposed, perhaps, to the modern Kardashian brand of fame), for ultimate femininity and for vulnerability. But while Jenner’s hands are out of shot, behind her back, the photo spotlights the strong muscles of her arms and thighs, reminding us of those Olympic medals, and serving as an antidote to the unguarded, exposed, Monroe-ish appeal of her corsetted waist and coy, expression, half-turned from the camera.

Related: Caitlyn Jenner: a life-affirming, provocative and downright fabulous Vanity Fair cover

Continue reading...

From 90s goth to Buckingham Palace chic: Angelina Jolie's best looks

$
0
0

Angelina Jolie turns 40 today. From accessorising with a vial of blood to meeting the Queen in pastels, here is how her style has evolved

Continue reading...

What I wore this week: a long waistcoat

$
0
0
‘Like an architectural hat, or nail art, or five-inch heels, it is the very above-and-beyond nature of the look that makes a statement’

I’m not gonna lie; there is no sense in which this week’s look is one of life’s essentials. “If my house was on fire, the first thing I would save would be my long waistcoat,” said nobody, ever. And yet. The very nonessential-ness of the long waistcoat is what makes it worthwhile. Like an architectural hat, or nail art, or five-inch heels, it is the very above-and-beyond nature of the look that makes a statement.

This doesn’t mean a long waistcoat serves no practical purpose. Think of it as a sleeveless coat. In the summer, you need an outer layer that is in some way a devolved version of the coat. You can lop the bottom half off a coat and call it a jacket; you can take out the lining and call it a duster-coat, or cut the arms off and… you get the idea.

Continue reading...

Lift selfies, lobster porn and pool feet: how Instagram redefined the summer

$
0
0

Once holiday photos were blurred snaps of sand and sunburn. Now they’re art-directed visions of fabulousness. Here are the key shots you’ll see this year and what they mean. Stand by for #bliss smugness overload

Instagram is to summer what the John Lewis advert is to Christmas. Just as that first hit of small-screen schmaltz puts us into Christmas mode (equal parts consumerist fervour and hashtag-friendly nostalgia #blessed), your Instagram feed now fires the starting gun on summer. Once upon a time, you knew the change in season by the cooing of the first turtle dove; now, it’s the ping alerting you to the 14th my-new-pedicure-and-sandals selfie of the day. Whereas once you just needed a lunchtime shopping trip for a new bikini and a pile of paperbacks to prep for your holiday, you now need to update your Instagram look. For instance: you do know, don’t you, that the “sunglasses and phones in the middle of the table” picture has overtaken last year’s “shoes in a circle” as the hot group-shot meme? Phew. And that skyscrapers should always be shot from pavement level, and your lunch from directly above? And that’s just the start …

Continue reading...

Shoes: Pleasure and Pain review: V&A explores exquisite torture of footwear

$
0
0

From tiny Chinese slippers for women’s bound feet to modern-day fetishwear, exhibition looks at how shoes can signify status and transform the wearer

Forget the feathered Manolo Blahniks and crystal-studded Jimmy Choos, the red-soled Louboutins and gold-platformed Vivienne Westwoods. The corner of a cabinet that most clearly tells the story of Shoes: Pleasure and Pain, a new exhibition at the V&A, contains exquisite 19th-century Chinese silk shoes for bound feet which, at just 7.6cm long, showcase what was then considered the feminine ideal. Next to them are a hulking pair of Adidas basketball boots from the late 1980s; these are closer to the foot size of a small elephant than to a human.

The fact that shoes are often not foot-shaped is at the heart of what this exhibition is about. The cultural significance of shoes is a rich topic, and as a result has become fairly well-worn territory in recently years. The challenge for the V&A is to use its unrivalled collection to bring something new to the topic. As its title suggests, Pleasure and Pain attempts to bring a fresh angle by dint of a full-frontal view of the perversity and strangeness of our relationship with shoes.

Related: The pleasure and pain of shoes: something afoot at the V&A

Continue reading...

Elizabeth Hurley at 50: how she has influenced your wardrobe (whether you like it or not)

$
0
0

Britain’s greatest actor turns 50 today – happy birthday Liz! From white jeans to safety pins, here are 10 ways she has changed what you wear

Continue reading...

What I wore this week: white dresses

$
0
0

‘What should be the most no-brainer summer dress of all is actually the most complex’

The problem with a white dress is that a white dress is never just that. It is a White Dress, with all the baggage that entails: weddings, Miss Havisham, church, purity. Fussy seat-cleanliness checks and the need to tailor menu choices around splashability. The simplicity is only skin deep, you see. What should be the most no-brainer summer dress of all is actually the most complex.

Continue reading...

Christopher Bailey turns to lace for a fine and dandy Burberry show

$
0
0

Of 44 outfits paraded along catwalk for LCM SS16, 33 sported lace, referencing traditions of British dandyism and contemporary fashion cult of androgyny

Will real men wear lace shirts? Christopher Bailey thinks so. The very first model in his Burberry catwalk show was wearing a trenchcoat – a particularly elegant number in lightweight navy gabardine – but barely anyone noticed, because he was also wearing an ivory lace shirt and a lace tie the colour of English mustard.

Of the 44 outfits on the catwalk, 33 sported lace. (The name of the collection: Strait-Laced. Ha ha.) A teal green double-breasted suit was worn with a mint lace shirt underneath; a casual cotton lace shirt, worn with slim-fit trousers and tasselled loafers, sported a white ruffle along the placket, and scallop-edged short sleeves.

Continue reading...

The bag to put on your bucket list this season

$
0
0

Bucket bags are the most stylish way to carry your summer essentials. What’s more, they are getting cheaper

This might just be the internet’s finest hour since this one. Because while of course we are too independent-minded to subscribe to any of that It-bag nonsense, we would be lying if we said we weren’t a bit obsessed with having a bucket bag this summer. Am I right or am I right? The Saint Laurent Emmanuelle is completely fabulous, but it is also, like, a zillion pounds. And the cult Mansur Gavriel bucket bags are sold out until August. So, spendy-fingers at the ready for the £229 Manu Atelier bucket bag.

Continue reading...

Summer style icons: Princess Leia, Sofia Coppola or Nancy from EastEnders?

$
0
0

Who is your summer style hero? A fashion legend, a sportswear-clad soap star or a space-age feminist? Guardian writers pay tribute to the people who know how to sparkle in the sunshine

Style-wise I am the opposite of King Midas: all clothes look terrible as soon as I put them on. I could wear the most expensive piece of Chanel couture ever created and somehow I would make it look like bargain basement Jane Norman. This is not an exaggeration, or self-deprecation: last year I spent an absolute fortune on some YSL ankle boots and the first time I wore them out a (very fashion-aware) friend said, “Ooh, your boots – Primark?”

Continue reading...

What I wore this week: wedding outfits

$
0
0

‘The Most Fabulous Person is the one with the outfit you notice straight away because you’d never have thought of wearing it to a wedding, but wish you had’

People you notice at a wedding: the bride, obvs. Adorable children. Very good-looking or famous people. Everyone else is chopped liver, except the Most Fabulous Person – the one with the outfit you notice straight away because you’d never have thought of wearing it to a wedding, but wish you had. You check the table plan in the hope they are sitting near you, because you have a feeling they will be fun. Their outfit is different because they haven’t gone formal and stuck-up but aren’t sloppily casual or too cool for school.

Continue reading...

The ultimate Glastonbury style guide: from denim cut-offs to disco sequins

$
0
0

Never mind the weather. When creating your festival fashion statement, it’s all about where you choose to hang out. Here’s our stage-by-stage breakdown

What to wear at Glastonbury this year? The weather is only one factor, because much depends on where exactly you will be hanging out. You wouldn’t pack the same holiday wardrobe for a cultured city break in Madrid as you would for a party weekend in Mykonos, would you?

Related: Glastonbury 2015: Wednesday liveblog – the weather and first arrivals

Continue reading...

What I wore this week: summer gothic

$
0
0

Festival fashion finally has a new look for the first time in about six years

Is festival fashion still a thing? It isn’t what it was (and praise be for that), but if there is one day a year when it is still relevant, then Glastonbury Saturday is surely that day. There really hasn’t been anything to say about festival fashion in forever, because it’s been hotpants plus wellies plus edgy top referencing either 70s boho or 90s rave, big earrings and a fringed cross-body bag. Kate Moss always wears something awesome, and everyone else spends the rest of the summer in less awesome versions of whatever Kate Moss wore, and that’s about all there is to it.

Continue reading...

Clueless? As if! This is the best fashion film ever made

$
0
0

Twenty years on, here are the style lessons we learned from Cher Horowitz and friends – from the power of a white shirt to the perils of flat hair

Pretty much everything I know about life, I learned from Clueless. It is, hands down, the best fashion film ever made. Breakfast at Tiffany’s? Strong eyeliner game, but as a romanticisation of eternal unfulfilment and dysfunctional relationships, not a great blueprint for life. Clueless, on the other hand – which is celebrating its 20th birthday with the happy news of a Broadway musical in the works – is a veritable bible for living, with wise lessons to impart on the subjects of friendship, boys, sex, kindness, not to mention the rules of accessorising and the power of a white shirt. Watch and learn.

Continue reading...

Men's fashion: How Zayn Malik graduated from style school

$
0
0

From Louis Vuitton to Valentino, the former One Direction star made quite a splash at last week’s menswear shows. Does a career in fashion beckon?

Amazing news from Paris menswear, guys. We got custody of Zayn! By “we”, I mean “fashion”, obviously. Yup, after lying pretty low for nearly three months after quitting One Direction, Zayn Malik has made his comeback into public life. And he chose to do so not by hanging out in wellies backstage at Glastonbury, but by getting dressed up to the nines and hitting up the Paris menswear shows. The year’s biggest blow to pre-teen girlhood is turning out to be an unexpected windfall for the style world.

Continue reading...

Donna Karan's greatest fashion achievements

$
0
0

The US designer is leaving the helm of the fashion house she launched in the mid-1980s. From designing clothes for real women to championing a female president, this is why she will be missed

What made Donna Karan truly unique was that she represented women not in the way male designers tend to imagine them – decorative creatures to be dressed up like paper dolls, for Country Club tennis tournaments and formal dinners – but as working women who wanted to look chic and feel comfortable in clothes that would take them from subway to office, taxi to restaurant.

Continue reading...
Viewing all 1625 articles
Browse latest View live