Autumn collection – the first to go on sale in Britain – mixes deep colours with intricate pattern and delicate embellishment
The J Crew formula is to the 21st century American fashion industry what the secret Coca Cola recipe was to the fast-food wars of the last. Everybody loves the taste – but only a few people know the secret, and they're not telling.
J Crew has claimed wardrobe bragging rights over the American zeitgeist to a degree not achieved by any high street store since Gap in the 1990s. (It is no coincidence that Mickey Drexler, who masterminded Gap in its khaki-and-white-shirt heyday, is now CEO of J Crew.) Michelle Obama and her daughters are famous fans, while Anna Wintour describes the brand as "a force to be reckoned with, and anyone who tells you otherwise is insane".
Later this year, J Crew comes to Britain, with a 17,000-sq ft store slated to open in Regent Street, London, the brand's first outside of the US.
The J Crew look – bright colours, jazzy costume jewellery, rich eveningwear textures used in daywear – could not be more different from the Gap look, but the dynamite secret is the same: the label has found a way to make casual clothing aspirational. In America, where folksiness is next to godliness, J Crew's accessible brand of glamour is a winning formula. ("Don't forget to smile. Mickey wants the girls to look friendly," a stylist with a lint roller in his jean pocket could be overheard reminding the models.)
"The colours, the mix and the styling" are how Tom Mora, head of womenswear design, pinpointed the appeal of the label at the New York fashion week presentation of the autumn collection, which will be the first to go on sale in the UK. Colour is key to the J Crew look. (Drexler is said to insist on yellow always being in eyeline when a customer enters the store, not because it sells but because it is a cheerful and eyecatching shade that sets the tone for the shopping experience.)
Purple, burgundy, pink and cobalt dominate for autumn, with rich saturated colour mixed with intricate pattern and delicate embellishment. Mora credits a trip to Marrakech for inspiring the collection: "The deep colours against the desert landscape… stood out in my mind. We created bold prints, used lush fabric textures and intricate beading and applied them to our idea of classic American sportswear."
The mix is a crucial element of J Crew's appeal. At the show, navy cropped trousers with an orange windowpane check were styled with a midnight peacoat slung over a grey cashmere knit, layered over a white shirt with diamante collar. The sparkle of the collar was echoed by silver ankle strap shoes; the lip gloss shade picked out that of the burgundy envelope clutch. The formula of mix-and-match is carefully calibrated for maximum effect, and enhanced with tips borrowed from the modish streetstyle blogs: the messy bun, the statement sunglasses, the shoulder-robed jacket.
The high level of design looks likely to impress British customers. A lilac wool coat combined Donegal tweed with a tonal herringbone used on the sleeves and lapels, the use of two similar fabrics adding a level of interest and texture to make the piece stand out from other high street offerings.