It's not about logos, it's about ideas – from Susan Sontag to the Flamin' Groovies, slogans on T shirts and sweaters are back, and this time they're really saying something, says Jess Cartner-Morley
This is no common-or-garden spring. This season's It girls demand to be seen and heard. The buzzword is freedom: freedom of movement, freedom of expression. The new spoken-word fashion is not to be confused with logomania – this is about your brain, not your brand. At entry level, anything in French will look chic. Then move on to an obtuse phrase that will invite double takes, such as the Against Interpretation – Susan Sontag sweater. Finally, graduate to the must-reads: a word or phrase commandeered by a smart brand. Sibling's Lead Sister knit is cute, but the star is Christopher Kane's Petal sweater. Saying it with flowers has never been so snappy.
Top, £40, by Ksubi (net-a-porter.com)
Christopher Kane Petal sweater (brownsfashion.com)
Sweatshirt, £165, by Kenzo (selfridges.com)
Bag, £275, by Ashish (brownsfashion.com)
18-carat gold diamond necklace, £5,300, by Jennifer Meyer (net-a-porter.com)
Top, £70, by OAK (net-a-porter.com)
Sweatshirt, £295, by Sister by Sibling (siblinglondon.com)
T-shirt, £85, by Etre Cécile (liberty.co.uk)
Trainers, from a selection, by Céline (020-7318 3144, celine.com)
Top, £283, by Moschino (moschino.com)
Dior Spring-Summer Ready-to-wear 2014 (dior.com)