After weeks of rumours, the luxury goods group has confirmed its investment in the British designer
• JW Anderson's kitchen-wear wipes the floor at London fashion week
• The radical unisex designs of JW Anderson
The rumours were true! JW Anderson has sealed a deal with the luxury powerhouse LVMH, which will see major investment for his brand and overtime for Anderson, who also becomes creative director of LVMH Spanish leather-goods brand Loewe. The investment deal had been a near-as-verified industry rumour for almost two weeks, but the Loewe job was not widely predicted – although the job was vacant following the departure of another Brit, Stuart Vevers, who moved to American brand Coach in the summer.
Coming just days after LVMH announced it is also backing the young British shoe designer Nicholas Kirkwood, the news suggests the luxury giants may be embarking on a spending spree to match the one that saw Stella McCartney and Alexander McQueen transformed into marquee names – and that, once again, London is where the fashion scouts are finding the sharpest talents.
JW Anderson – he's actually a Jonathan, although the label is affectionately-slash-immaturely dubbed J Dubz by sections of the front row – yesterday described his new backers as "the Oxford University of luxury goods". It is a telling metaphor, which reveals his ambition, and how seriously he takes the industry and his career. His rise been remarkably speedy. He is just 29, and his business (which until yesterday consisted of 14 people in a Dalston studio) has only been established for five years, but already turns a profit.
Anderson described Paris yesterday as "the most sophisticated city". He will likely feel at home when he is there for the Loewe show next season, as he has certain traits in common with other designers recently appointed to major Paris houses. Raf Simons, Hedi Slimane and now JW Anderson all began their careers as menswear designers, so they bring to Paris a new perspective on this city's love affair with femininity. They are all understated men who prefer to make their impact in the design studio – no powdered wigs or catwalk cartwheels. None live in a fashion bubble; instead they are well-read, well-informed people who bring broad-ranging cultural reference points to what they do.
The announcement adds bite to Paris fashion week, coming hours before the second show by Alexander Wang for Balenciaga. Wang has recently seen his own backers, LVMH's great rivals Kering, adopt a new rising star to their own ranks in the shape of Christopher Kane; now a new star striker wiill start for the opposing team as well. The question in Paris is, will the frisson of competition bring an extra edge to the Wang game today?