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Stylewatch: Ed Miliband's conference speech

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Justine's makeup and clothes suggested a woman not entirely comfortable with her appearance being under the microscope

In the end it was Justine who channelled the Reagans, not Ed. The power earrings, 1980s levels of hairspray and liberal application of eyeshadow were all reminiscent of Nancy. It seemed a peculiar style icon for the leader's wife to choose, not least because the full-fat hair and make-up was so out of kilter with her outfit. Her chrysanthemum print dress and sensible black pumps was recognisably New Labour woman: a tailored but not too hourglass shape; short sleeves and a knee-length hem, colours in the red-to-purple-to-black spectrum that Labour women have made their own. (See Yvette Cooper's similar look.) The disconnect between the makeup and the clothes suggested a woman not entirely comfortable with her appearance at this speech being under the microscope.

Justine's choice of label is a tellingly predictable one, which reflects the fact that the first lady issue is a problem which crosses party lines. The dress is from LK Bennett, a label that has won favour among female Tories and other British women in the public eye, such as Kate Middleton, for understated, safe-pair-of-hands, well-made-but-not-extravagant clothes. (This dress, the Bassey jacquard floral print, sells for £245.) Wearing LK Bennett suggests a desire to dress to pass muster, while keeping fashion at arm's length.

Unwilling to play up to wifely stereotypes by declaring her wifely satisfaction with Action Hero Ed to the cameras, Justine Miliband did not take to the stage as had been predicted. Instead – presumably in an attempt to appease those who were wondering where she had got to — she was given an early round of applause simply for sitting in the front row, which was no doubt intended to be touching but came off as patronising instead.

When the speech was over, Ed led his wife around the hall by hand, looking as if he were introducing a shy new contestant on Westminster's Next Top Model. If eschewing the Here's-My-Wonderful-Husband podium introduction was supposed to be a win for gender equality, it came off more like an own goal: the mute, mascara-laden Justine paired with the newly puffy-chested, macho Ed. None of this is either of the Milibands' fault. Global popular culture is increasingly in thrall to the first lady phenomenon – note the growing fame Peng Liyuan of China, now installed on Vanity Fair's best dressed list – but British political culture still finds the phenomenon embarrassing.

Miliband had a good stab at diffusing less-than-glowing critiques of his personal glamour by making a joke of it in his speech. His opening anecdote recalled how damsel in distress Ella Phillips had said of Miliband, who helped her after a bike accident, that "he was casually dressed, but he had style."


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