Byzantine chic, the furry 30s and 70s kitsch – there are some surprising style references this season. We reveal the years that influenced the looks of summer 2013
1174
It's just so weird that no one mentions the 1170s, isn't it? So thank goodness Dolce and Gabbana pointed out the brilliant Byzantine chicness of 1174 with its AW13 collection, which references the mosaics in the Catedral de Monreale in Sicily. Hand beading, laciness, cardinal red. As fresh now as they were in the 12th century.
1591
The Brooklyn hipster beard (19th-century blacksmith/Mumford & Sons/Johnny Harrington) has been the defining men's hairstyle reference of the past year. But the July release of Julian Fellowes' Romeo and Juliet brings news of looks hot from the 1590s. Damian Lewis as Lord Capulet revives the 16th-century monastic bowl cut as silver-fox material (yes, really) while Ed Westwick as Tybalt makes a strong case for the manbob.
1922
The Gatsby effect, as it turns out, is not about flapper dresses but about party styling. Gingham bunting and cocktails in teacups were the jubilee year's default summer setting, but this summer's parties need: white balloons; shallow champagne coupes; candles under belljars and fringed table lamps. Polo horses on the lawn strictly optional; handsome men in oatmeal cashmere always welcome.
1936
When Phoebe Philo unveiled this furry Birkenstock-like sandal at the Céline show it was instantly declared a) fabulous and b) reminiscent of Méret Oppenheim's 1936 work Breakfast in Fur. It's unlikely you'll know someone who buys the Céline's, but commenting that someone's sandals are "so 1936" is the surreal compliment of the summer.
1998
The late 90 saw a trashy Americana aesthetic rule – see thrift-store chic on the Prada catwalk. Buffalo 66, the 1998 film, was this look's repeat watch. A road movie starring ex-con Vincent Gallo and a blonde Christina Ricci in a babydoll slipdress, get ready for its comeback. Preen referenced it for spring/summer– a drive-by of slipdresses, snakeprint and big blowsy flowers.
1955
Dior will for ever be associated with the 1950s. The 1950s will for ever be associated with iced-tea femininity. So, how better for Raf Simons to make the point that the 1950s wasn't just for squares than by using 50s artwork by 60s badboy Warhol. A Warhol 1950s shoe– note the on-trend Nan-height heel – is summer's heir to spring's slogan sweatshirt.
2003
In the wake of Hurricane Sandy, Marc Jacobs nodded to Manhattan's new weather obsession by installing a version of Eliasson's decade-old Turbine Hall sunshine on his New York catwalk back in February. With weather-watch at record levels even for Britain, this is a timely reference on this side of the Atlantic. Recreate the look with the help of the "Kelvin" filter on Instagram.
1967
The year Elvis got married, Martin had a dream and the Summer of Love happened, 1967 is also the year season six of Mad Men is set in. Betty Francis, nee Draper, has returned to her rightful place as the alpha style icon. Last week's episode had her in a high 60s look of sequinned yellow gown, worn with full hair and makeup. She's turning heads again – spoiler alert! – Don's included.
1977
Behind the Candelabra opens at disco's peak, 1977. You can tell because I Feel Love is playing and Matt Damon is dressed in high-waisted jeans. While Michael Douglas' Liberace might plump for fox fur coats and glitter hairspray at breakfast, cherrypick Damon's leisurewear – striped shorts and blouson jackets – and that hair. Best leave the blinged chauffeur's uniform to the annals of history.
1981
Forget the plot in The Americans and follow the clothes instead. I give you Keri Russell's excellent denim wardrobe. The first time we see Elizabeth Jennings in mom mode, she's wearing high-waisted jeans with outside seams and a scoop-necked raspberry-coloured body. Brooke Shields in the Nothing Comes Between Me and My Calvins ads, combined with big hair, were clearly on the moodboard.
1989
No one is suggesting that today's nationwide release of Shane Meadows' Made of Stone is licence to de-mothball your Joe Bloggs jeans and Afflecks Palace hoodie. But there are some aspects of the original 1989 look that are worth revisiting, namely mid-blue jeans and expressive T-shirts. Worn By has done that burning-money-print T-shirt– you needn't be diehard to wear it.
1994
Hot British designer JW Anderson recently admitted that he is obsessed with the original unisex scent cK One. But that's not the only reason that the early-to-mid 1990s look is a Thing. Socks and shoes with a frayed denim hem is primed to be a hipster look of the summer. Plus – breaking: spaghetti strap vest are all set for a comeback.